Drafting a pattern from a shop bought skirt

I have an all time favourite skirt that I would to reproduce in different materials. It’s a skater skirt and ‘should’ (she says) be easy enough to recreate!

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So here’s how I went about attempting this:

1) I laid the skirt down flat on to some kiddie craft paper. I then took my pattern tracer wheel and ran that along the seams. This made a dotted mark along the paper.

2) Using my pattern making ruler and grader’s set square I straightened the lines and made the curves better (not sure how else to word that). The front part to my pattern I folded it in half to make sure it was using the centre front as the fold line.

3) I drew the straight grain parallel to the centre front line and centre back seams. I found the straight grain for the side pattern pieces by folding them in half and drawing the straight grain along that folded line.

4) I then placed the back part of the skirt down and traced those seams, but I found with this particular skirt that it was the same as the front but with a seam where the centre front is which is where the zip would go.

5) I then added a 1cm seam allowance round all seams apart from the centre back (zip seam) and hem. I allowed a 2cm seam allowance at the hem and 1.5cm seam allowance down he centre back seam to allow room for the zip to be sewn in. You can either add the seam allowance on to the pattern or add it on once the pattern is pinned to the material (like of have).

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6) I decided to make a toile first using calico to test my pattern making skills. So I placed the pattern down lining the straight grain to the selvedges, added the seam allowance then cut out my pieces.

7) The waistband was just a strip of material double the width with a 1cm seam allowance on the length and 1.5 cm at the zip.

Here’s the tested pattern made out if calico:

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It fits perfectly :). Now to make it out of the real fabric!